Pontremoli - Aulla - Sarzana 32 + 19 km, 3rd and 4th of October 2022

Yesterday young Leonardo and me did the long stretch of 32 km from Pontremoli to Aulla together. It took us some 9 hours and needless to say my feet were " killing" me.  As usual the last couple of days the track goes up an down through small villages on the outskirts of the Apenines which will be with us on the left for many days yet. Leonardo is an 18 year old amazingly knowledgeable and intellectual young man. He is partly Slavic/Ukranian/Italian and Hebrew on top of that with a rich family heritage which he is proud to talk about. He has lived most of his time in Germany with his parents but wants to make a living for himself and eventually study in Rome. Also history, religion, languages and politics are favourites of his to talk about. We know each other for some time now and he asked me if he could walk with me (to Rome) and as he is such an interesting personality I am pleased with his company. He also speaks fluently Italian and is handy to have around when we need to get some food or a bed for the night. We get along well so far. 

After  the one day of rain going up the Apenines, the weather has been good but misty in the mornings. This gives a special atmosphere going through the  woods and along the mountain sides with heavy clouds hanging in the valleys. In Pontremoli and in Aulla we stay(ed) in closed down Abbeys where some beds are reserved for us pilgrims for 10 to 15 Euro's. Here in Sarzana we spend the night in a shack with some beds and a bathroom reserved for pilgrims which belong to the local church. For the moment we seem to be walking in a group of four with Peter (68) from Canada, Zena ( of around 60 maybe) from France and Leonardo besides myself. In any case, we sleep in the same places  and meet each other occasionally while walking/ resting. Although we all four wanted something else we had to settle for Pizza for dinner as nothing else was available. So an early night and I slept remarkably well for once.

To day we had only 18 km ahead of us and after a capucho with two croissants we started off in the fog but soon climbed above the clouds. Magnificent! We even saw the first glimpses of the Mediterranean. We did some steep 500 'm up and some more down on a muddy limestone track to get to Sarzana. The path led us through shady forests and although tiresome, the scenery was otherwise beautiful. 

If possible I have my thermos filled up with hot water in the morning such that we can enjoy a cup of tea when we eat our sandwich in the afternoon. 

Surprisingly and with happiness we found Swiss Sheila in the Ostello when the four of us got back from dinner. It was good too see her in good shape after we left her that rainy day with her punctured bike somewhere on the way to Cassio. Turned out she got help from a family who helped her fix the bike and gave her shelter and a bed for the night. Good to experience that there are still many good people in this world.

To morrow a short stretch of only 13 km  halfway to Massa, where Leonardo and me have reserved a bed for the night in a nice place where we can rest our feet and maybe even go to the beach to take a swim in the Mediterranean. As Peter and Zena move on to Massa we probably won't see them again.