12 april La Chatelet - Le Chatre 32 km E

04:43 I cannot sleep any more. I have to tell a bit more about my encounter with Mr. Paul in Loye sur Arnon Yesterday. In fact I was walking on a small road to the Village when a small car stopped beside me and the driver rollen down the window. He asked if I was a pilgrim on my way to Santiago and I said yes. We shook hands through the window and he sand hvis name was Paul (!) and that he owned a Relais ( Forret Vieille) further down the road and I should Come and visit if I could. I was longing for a cup of coffee so I said that if he had the coffee ready I would come. I' d like that he said and drove gently off. In a couple of minutes I walked into the village and first thing I saw was a cafe-restaurant and the temptation was great to stop there and have this cup of coffee. Then I saw a sign of the Relais of Paul and I decided to walk on and find the place. No info where it was or how far. Following the various signs It appeared I had to walk for another kilometer off the track! I through this better be a good cup of coffee. Something about the man had awoken my interest, he seemed so frail and almost transparent, and besides I had made a promiss. When I finally had found the place he came out and led me into an annex furnished for pilgrims where he seated me and startet making coffee. He put out biscuits, sugar and milk and pulled out a ledger to write down my credentials as a pilgrim. I also got a stamp. I said I was Dutch but livet in Norway he insisted that I was his first Norwegian pilgrim and wrote that down. He asked for my age and guessed I was 48 or something. I said he was too kind and that I was 63. He feined surprise and smiled and we had a good laugh. As I said before, I saw Francois had been there the night before and I saw he had written 55 behind Froncois' name. I said that Francois also was 63 and Paul said he never asked for hvis age and that Francois wasn't a man who invited for conversation.
Paul mentioned that he also had been to Santiago, but by car to spread the ashes of his wife who had died some 5 years ago and he looked at me with sad but loving eyes. She had always wanted to pilgrimmage to Santiago, and they had even tried for a week but had to give up the effort because of her heart condition.
The coffee and cookies were delicious, and I asked Paul how much I should pay for the coffee which Paul refused to accept. I had to be on my way but Paul insisted I have a further look at the lodgings and that he take my picture for his picture book of pilgrims. He took out an old fashioned mirror reflex csmera and I brought out my telephone and extending selfiestick ( 3 Euro in Florence) which Paul had never seen before and we took a couple of pictures. I found this encounter with Paul moving and I had to share this story.
Now I may just as well get up and be on my way with Janick. 21:30 Le Chatre: Janick an I have found refuge with the Presbyterians for a donation of your own choise. We walked 32 km to day starting in freezing cold and ended our walk in 30 degrees C. We needed to replenish water to make it. On such a day 25 km should be the maximum. Our feet hurt like hell, but the swelling of my left foot is now much less. Halfway at a place called Nery we came at signpost that said 1557 km to Santiago de Compostela (see photo) Nothing other eventful although halfway we had a cup of coffee and met a Belgian who was cycling all the way back to Gent from Santiago. His name was Jo Zoetehemel which he found very befitting for a pilgrim :-) He was so tired and sweating that we bought him a beer. To day 40715 steps and 2162 calories Tomorrow 27 km to Cluis if we can walk at all.... Bonne nuit! Paul